There is some evidence that surfing can lead to better coordination later in life. Surfers spend 40 to 60 percent of their time either endurance paddling to get to the lineup, where waves start breaking and surfers wait to catch them, or sprint paddling to catch waves - both of which strengthen muscles in the back, shoulders, chest and neck, Dr. “What most surfers realize, and the general population probably doesn’t realize, is the vast majority of the time in the water is spent either paddling or stationary - a small fraction of the time (between 2 to 5 percent) is spent wave riding,” Dr. It’s just do or don’t.” Now, she plans to check out beaches closer to the city so she can keep practicing. “While riding a wave, I don’t have time to second guess myself or overthink. “I was so locked in on the wave crashing underneath my board, I could cast aside all my worries and focus on the exhilaration and joy of the moment,” Ms. Her first ride lasted only a few seconds, but it was thrilling. She kept her head up and looked away from the board, positioning her right foot toward the back and placing her left foot in the middle. Kamau-Weng paddled her arms until the nose of the board dipped into the wave - her cue to pop up fast and balance. But finally her instructor spotted a promising wave and pushed her onto it, and Ms. The female instructors made her feel welcome and she learned how to “pop up” (moving from a push-up into a crouched stance) on a foam board, which is easier for beginners to balance on than a fiberglass surfboard. Kamau-Weng, 22, rented a car and drove two hours to take a lesson in Cape Cod. When a classmate mentioned that he surfed near Boston, she was intrigued. A Boston native who is Black and Asian, she’d never seen a surfer of color and didn’t know there were beaches close by that would be good for beginners. Jeriyla Kamau-Weng never imagined herself as a surfer.
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